By Larry Huff
For a video tour of Far Niente, click this link.

It has been said that innovation breeds distinction, and nowhere is this truth more aptly exemplified than at Napa Valley’s luxury estate winery, Far Niente. And perhaps nowhere at Far Niente is it more aptly exemplified than in its epic wine caves.

When Far Niente was founded in 1885, the winery’s stone archway led only to a solid-rock hillside, making it pretty clear that the founder’s original intent included wine caves — a fairly common practice in those days. But intent is often interrupted by history, and the Far Niente caves were never dug in those early days.

It was not until nearly a century later that Mr. Gil Nickel (who had only a year earlier acquired Far Niente) resolved to make this intent a reality. In 1980, he commissioned the creation of a relatively small cave in the same rock hillside, so this “archway to nowhere” could lead to fulfilled dreams and, as it turned out, historic precedent.
To Gil Nickel from Oklahoma, digging a 60-foot long cave — an undertaking that seemed so unnecessary to some — was a natural extension of his ethos. He had no category for shortcuts, and he rejected mediocrity in any form or fashion. However, what he probably didn’t realize at the time was that his dedication would lead to Far Niente being the first North American winemaker in the 20th century to rediscover the attributes of underground aging.

When everyone else surrendered to the convenience of refrigeration, Nickel was committed to a different path, and hardly an easy one. He appointed Alf Burtleson to dig the first cave, and ten years later he decided to expand the original effort. This time around, in 1991, Burtleson’s four-man crew utilized a 22-foot-long hydraulic drill (originally used to dig coal mines) and the caves grew to over 15,000 square feet. Work continued on and off for another decade, and by 2001 the amazing network of Far Niente caves expanded to an impressive 40,000 square feet.

Why all the expense, the backbreaking labor and the arduous efforts? Dirk Hampson, director of winemaking at Far Niente, offers quite simply: “Caves have qualities beneficial to wine aging that are impossible to capture in an above-ground building.” To be specific, the constant temperature of 58-60 degrees Fahrenheit, coupled with the caves’ natural humidity create a very stable environment, perfectly conducive to aging Far Niente’s 2,500 French oak barrels of fine wine.

Put simply, since caves were the best way to naturally age wine, Far Niente would have caves.
However, far more than utility was created in Far Niente’s wine caves. Tour them once and the most casual observer will be captivated by their beauty and impeccable attention to detail. From the caves’ backlit niches to their 45-degree tunnels, there is an original sense of place in these caves that is truly awe-inspiring.

Among their greatest distinctions is the octagonal wine library. This room was painstakingly constructed and is now home to Far Niente’s most distinguished vintages. From its farthest wall juts an august fountain, inspired by one of Hampson’s visits to Rome, where such works are fairly commonplace. But here, the fountain is the perfect creative accoutrement. Its peaceful water cascades from the cistern of a serene and patriarchal monk, flawlessly accentuating the library’s warm lighting and natural limestone beauty with gentle, soothing tones.

The caves’ brilliance resounds in the great wines that they age. This brilliance not only reflects Nickel’s character, but also his embrace of history’s wisdom. Vintners across Napa Valley have now emulated the foresight Nickel brought to bear by building wine caves of their own.

The Far Niente caves are also heralded by wine lovers worldwide. To see this played out, fast-forward to February 2007, four years into the late Mr. Nickel’s compelling legacy, where some 600 connoisseurs and members of the Far Niente family gathered in the wine caves.

They came to toast the release of the 2004 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley — a regal occasion of great proportion. Guests also savored barrel tastings of the 2005 Cabernet vintage, the 2003 and 2005 Chardonnays, and Far Niente’s unrivaled 2003 vintage late harvest wine, Dolce.

Proprietress Beth Nickel, winemaker Stephanie Putnam and president Larry Maguire were among those who poured. “It was just so much fun! I can’t remember so many people having such a good time in the caves since we held the cave grand opening party back in March 1990,” Maguire said.

Yet, this hallmark event represented something far greater. In many ways, it was a toast (although perhaps unwittingly) to the visions Mr. Nickel cast in this stone nearly 30 years ago, a celebration of the man himself and his unwavering belief that through dedication, innovation and hard work, one could truly create distinction. In this case, it was a wine of world-class distinction.

No words are needed to understand this distinction, so fully manifested at Far Niente. It is deeply sensed in the caves’ mystique, observed in their incredible beauty, heard in their echoing hallways, and — best of all — tasted in their world-class wines.

 A Tasteful Tour

Experience the magic, beauty and genius of Far Niente’s wine caves by arranging a Tour & Tasting, by visiting farniente.com/Winery/tourstastings.html.